
How I Accidentally Found One of Navarra’s Best Hidden Gems: Castillo de Peña
Navarra is one of those places people think they understand… until they actually spend time here.
Most people know it for Pamplona and the Running of the Bulls, maybe the Pyrenees if they’re feeling adventurous. But what they don’t realise is that Navarra was once its own kingdom. And like any self-respecting kingdom, it needed protecting.
Which means castles. Lots of them.
Some are famous, like the fairytale towers of Palacio Real de Olite or the imposing Castillo de Javier, but others?
Others have been quietly reclaimed by nature.
Forgotten.
Left for curious wanderers… or people like me who just happened to be trying to get fit.
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What's in this post:
Peña is one of the hills behind my house and in a rare moment of motivation, I decided to hike up it.
Halfway through, I checked my map and saw something marked: Castillo de Peña.
Now, I’ve done enough of these to know what that usually means…
A few scattered stones.
A bit of imagination required.
A slightly underwhelming “well, that’s technically a ruin.”
So I thought, why not?
Worst case: a decent workout.
Best case: something mildly interesting.
What I did not expect… was what I found.
Instead of a pile of rocks, I stumbled into:
It felt less like a ruin… and more like a place people had just quietly walked away from.
And the biggest question in my head the entire time?
Why is nobody talking about this?
If you want to experience this for yourself (and you should), here’s exactly how to get there.
1. Park in Torre de la Peña
Start in the small village of Torre de la Peña.
It’s tiny. Blink and you’ll miss it.
2. Follow the Dirt Track Past the Ermita
From the village, follow the main dirt track past the ermita (small chapel).
It’s all very straightforward.
3. Continue Until the Big Blue Gate (You Can’t Miss It)
Eventually, you’ll hit a large blue metal gate with a sign:
“Prohibido el paso”
Very welcoming.
This is the entrance to a finca, and no, you can’t go through it.
4. Take the Small Path to the Right
Just before the gate, you’ll see a narrow single track on the right.
This is your route.
Follow it as it winds through colourful shrubs and gently climbs toward the mountains.
5. After about 600m, Take the LEFT Fork
You’ll soon reach a fork:
The left path leads you toward the fence of the finca.
6. Follow the Fence, Then Break Away Toward the Castle
Stick with the fence for a while.
Eventually, the path veers off… and that’s when it gets exciting.
You’ll start to catch glimpses of the castle, perched high on the rock, watching over the valley like it still has enemies to defend against.
7. Final Ascent
The climb is:
But honestly?
If my 8 and 11-year-old can do it (with only a few “are we there yet”s), you’ll be fine.
You’ll arrive… and just stand there for a moment.
Because two things hit you immediately:
There are a couple of exposed sections, but nothing too wild if you’re sensible.
And then you just… explore.
Room by room. Wall by wall.
Trying to piece together a life that used to exist here.
Apparently, and I’m slightly gutted about this, there’s a cemetery hidden nearby.
I didn’t see it (so don’t expect it to be obvious), but one grave tells a story worth the extra effort. A British WWII pilot crashed in these mountains in 1943 while trying to reach neutral Spain, and the villagers buried him up here, overlooking the valley where he fell.
Which, naturally, means I now have to go back.
For research purposes, of course.
And definitely not just for the drone footage.
I did this over Easter. Prime hiking season in Spain.
And saw exactly two people and a dog.
Navarra is full of hidden gems.
But this one?
This feels different.
Because it hasn’t been packaged.
It hasn’t been polished.
It hasn’t been turned into a “must-see attraction.”
It’s just… there.
Waiting.
If this is your kind of travel, the kind where you stumble across places that aren’t in every blog post, then you’ll love this area.
Drop me an email and I’ll point you toward more places like this (the ones I’m slightly reluctant to share publicly… but will anyway).
And if you’re looking for somewhere to stay:
You can stay with us, either renting a room for a proper multicultural homestay experience, or taking the whole place if you’re coming as a group.
Sometimes the best places aren’t planned.
They’re found.
Usually when you’re just trying to get your steps in.
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