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The Maldives are much more than an expensive honeymoon destination: join a group tour and discover the real Maldives!
I am on a mission to discover the world through a different lens, to showcase it beyond our perceptions based on the media we consume. And the Maldives is one such destination I had heard very little about beyond the over-water bungalows and honeymoon suites. I had yet to find a single travel document promoting the Maldives as anything other than an expensive getaway. So when I heard that Indy Escapes was running small group tours to the Maldives, I had to sign up. It promised local islands and bucket list activities, and despite my intense fear of the sea, I decided this was my chance to experience the Maldives on a budget. This post is an honest review of my Maldives group tour with Indy Escapes.
What's in this post:
Who are Indy Escapes?
Indy Escapes is owned and run by Lucas Chesterton, whom I met in Sierra Leone while supporting Street Child. He set up Indy Escapes to open up the world to solo travellers by offering quality experiences while positively impacting the destinations they visit. Although aimed at solo travellers, it is not unusual for couples to be on the tour, too.
Indy Escapes offers group tours in the Maldives, Turkey, Kenya, Uganda, and Bali. These tours focus on ticking off bucket list activities with like-minded individuals brought together by a common denominator: a wish to explore the world.
I joined their Kenya trip in October 2023 and completely fell in love with his travel style, so it was a no-brainer to join his small group tour in the Maldives!
The Maldives with a twist
Nestled southwest of Sri Lanka and India, the Maldives comprises 1,192 islands, of which only 188 are inhabited. Of those 188, 160 are resorts, leaving only 22 local islands. As part of the tour, we stayed on local islands rather than in expensive resorts. Not only did this have the benefit of making the trip affordable, but it also meant that we got to see the “real” Maldives. It allowed us to interact with locals on their home turf and learn about the idiosyncrasies that arise when tourists and expats make up such a significant percentage of the population.
Above all, though, it meant that we were in the best place to enjoy the Maldives’ most prized possession: its marine life.
What animals live in the Maldives?
You might think that the beauty of the Maldives lies on the surface, with its white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters, but the real gems are all in the water! This is what made the Indy Escapes group tour stand out as the best option for exploring the Maldives. We spent most days underwater enjoying the large variety of marine life, which included whale sharks, sting rays, manta rays, reef sharks, nurse sharks, eagle rays, hawkbill turtles, leatherback turtles, bottlenose dolphins, and a vast array of fish. Small fish, big fish, colour fish, and unicorn fish! It truly is an underwater lover’s paradise.
What did we get up to on our Maldives group tour?
Here is what Indy Escapes had planned for us:
Day 1: Arrival and beachfront dinner
Lucas was at the airport ready to greet us and whisk us off to our first island of the trip: Dhigurah, believed to be one of the most beautiful islands in the Maldives. Travel magazines and bloggers often feature its beaches in “Most Beautiful Beaches” lists online. They certainly were special. We got our first taste as soon as we arrived, making our way to the beach for a sunset dip.
Dhigurah means long island in the local language (Dhivehi). It’s roughly 4 km long, which is long by Maldivian standards. In the north is a small fishing village with about 600 inhabitants, and in the south is a long sandbank. It really was spectacular.
We were staying in one of the few hotels on the island: The White Sands. It is a nice, comfortable hotel positioned 5 minutes’ walk from both “sunset beach” and “sunrise beach.” Does it get better than that?
The only thing that could top it was a candle-lit dinner on the beach, which Indy Escapes arranged for us!
Day 2: Whale Shark Excursion
Dhigurah is one of the best places in the Maldives to swim with whale sharks, and that is precisely what we did. After a delicious breakfast, we jumped on a boat and started scanning the waters for the resident whale sharks.
The area is a whale shark sanctuary, and due to the high population of these gentle giants, the Maldives Whale Shark Research Program operates there. MWSRP is a charity that carries out whale shark research and engages local communities in conservation initiatives to keep these beautiful giants safe.
We were on the water for about three hours before we spotted one. We all jumped in, and I can’t describe just how magical it was to swim alongside such a large animal. I’m a terrible swimmer (and terrified of the ocean), so my awe only lasted for about 20 seconds before I started panicking that I had thoughtlessly jumped into a bottomless ocean! But 20 seconds was enough to make me fall in love with whale sharks.
The importance of sustainability on group tours
Lucas from Indy Escapes cares deeply about the sustainability of his group tours. He briefed us all about how to behave appropriately when in the water with whale sharks: keep 5 metres distance, don’t swim in front of it, and don’t touch it. Sadly, not all Maldives group tours care as much about the welfare of the animals, and they allowed their guests to get in the way, get far too close, and some idiot even tried touching it.
Because we didn’t want to be part of any behaviour that caused distress to the whale sharks, we let it be as soon as the other boats arrived.
Lunch in paradise
After our whale shark excursion, we were dropped off at the southern point of Dhigurah Island, where a delectable beach lunch awaited us. We sat in the shade of a palm tree, still buzzing from that morning’s encounter, all pinching ourselves at the fact that we were here, enjoying bucket-list activities in the Maldives with an awesome group of fellow travellers.
Our afternoon was free to enjoy as we wanted. Most of us walked to the end of the island to admire the sandbank before walking back along the only sandy path. If I ever decide to write a book, this is where I will hunker down for a month or two.
Foods to try in Maldives
Food plays a significant role in my enjoyment of travel. I love trying the local cuisine and the Maldives was no different.
There were two main dishes I was able to enjoy on this trip: Mas Huni at breakfast and Kottu Roshi at dinner.
Mas Huni is shredded smoked tuna mixed with grated coconut, lemon, and onions served on chapati-style roshi bread. I discovered it on my second day in the Maldives, and it became my go-to during the whole trip.
Kottu Roshi is another dish involving the delicious Maldivian flatbread (roshi). In this instance, the roshi is cut into thin strips and then stir-fried with tuna (or chicken) and veg with a spicy (maybe slightly sweet) sauce. I would have done it if eating the same thing every night was socially acceptable!
Day 3: Manta Rays and Resorts
On the third day of our Maldives group tour, we set off on the boat again, this time searching for manta rays and sting rays. We had the chance to jump in and swim above a sting ray a couple of times. Again, my poor swimming skills and fear of the ocean held me back from “staying with” the sting ray, but a number of our group were able to swim peacefully behind it for what felt like miles.
One of the things I am particularly grateful for on this trip is the inclusivity of all skill levels. Despite my fears, I was able to see and enjoy everything. That is one thing I can’t knock about Indy Escapes; they go above and beyond to ensure everyone has a great time.
You don’t need a mortgage to enjoy a Maldives Resort!
After a morning of snorkelling, we went to Amaya Resort Kuda Rah. I won’t lie, resorts are not my cup of tea. As lovely as it was to relax by the pool and take photos on the swing, I don’t see the appeal of an all-inclusive resort. Yet most people who come to the Maldives are unaware of any alternatives to these resorts, so spending the afternoon on one was interesting, if anything, to reinforce that I am happy I did not waste any money on one!
There is one benefit to resorts, and that is the availability of alcohol. I don’t drink, so again, it’s not a requirement for me, but a lot of people do enjoy having a drink, especially on holiday. The Maldives is a Muslim country and therefore a dry country. As such, no alcohol is available on the local islands (at least not legally). On the resorts however, alcohol is permitted, allowing my fellow travellers to enjoy a few cocktails in a lovely relaxing setting.
Day 4: Shipwrecks, sandbanks, nurse sharks and manta ray
Today was by far my favourite day. My nerves about being in the water were diminishing, so I was finally able to enjoy myself a little more. Our first stop of the day was a shipwreck. It crashed into a reef during a storm nine years ago and is now a great snorkelling spot for all levels of snorkelers.
There was a huge abundance of fish, and on a couple of occasions, I was entirely surrounded by a school of fish. INCREDIBLE!! I loved it! I swam back and forth, admiring the underwater life that had claimed the wooden shell as its home. I would have happily stayed there all day.
We spent about an hour at the shipwreck before going to a narrow sandbank in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Our guides set up umbrellas so we could enjoy our lunch in the shade before jumping straight into the warm sea that surrounded us. Did I die and go to heaven?
Swimming with sharks
What’s the one thing you should do when you are scared of the ocean? Jump into the sea with a hungry bunch of nurse sharks, some of which were easily 3 metres in length! There is a shiver of nurse sharks near one of the resorts in the Maldives. The resort has been throwing its food scraps in the water for over 40 years, which has impacted this particular shark family’s ability to hunt, and they have become reliant on human interaction.
During the pandemic, divers reported the sharks had become seriously malnourished. And here comes the predicament. Do you continue feeding them despite the impact it has on their instincts, or do you stop feeding them and potentially starve them? The jury is out for me without doing more research.
However, I am guilty of jumping in the water with them and hanging out in the background while they swam around the boat feeding. It was a surreal experience to be underwater with these animals that I have been taught to fear. The nurse sharks swam towards me a few times, turning away when they were mere metres from me. I don’t think I would have had the confidence to jump in the water with any other tour provider, but I knew that Indy Escapes cares deeply about the welfare of the sharks and the safety of their guests.
Floating with manta rays
The final activity of what turned into my favourite day of the trip was floating above a squadron of manta rays. Manta Rays are friendly, inquisitive animals that often approach divers and snorkelers. In this case, they swam around us as we floated on our backs in the sea.
Welcome to Maafushi
All activities mentioned on day 4 were part of the transfer day as we travelled from Dhigurah to Maafushi, a much more populated island. It is the central tourist hub for travellers wanting to avoid the resorts and, therefore, offers many activities.
The island is divided into three. One-third is the tourist quarter, where the big hotels, restaurants, dive shops and souvenir shops line the sandy streets. One-third is the local quarter where you will find local stores and smaller more basic hotels. And the final One-third is taken up by a prison!
I enjoyed the buzz of Maafushi, so I stayed two extra nights after the tour ended to continue enjoying this island and learn more about the local culture.
We finished the best day of the trip on a high with another beachfront meal. If Indy Escapes ever gets bored of running group tours, they will definitely be able to make a living creating romantic dinners. We certainly had our fair share of them on this trip!
Day 5: Scuba diving with sea turtles
Maafushi is surrounded by coral reefs, which make brilliant dive sites. These sites cater to novices who have never dived before and dive masters who have travelled the world exploring our oceans.
I’m certified but a nervous novice, so it was great that I could still enjoy a proper dive with the reassurance that I was being looked after. After a quick confidence-boosting refresher, we descended into the depths of the warm turquoise sea. I won’t lie; I was more focused on my breathing than enjoying the scenery, but there was a particular moment made all my fears disappear. The moment we spotted a hawkbill turtle just chilling. We gave it its space and floated above it, admiring its beauty. I’ve always wanted to swim with turtles, and now, thanks to Indy Escapes, I can say I’ve done it!
We had some free time in the afternoon, so I used it to explore the island with some of my fellow travellers. And s is one thing that Indy Escapes does exceptionally well. This is my second group trip with them, and on both occasions, they have managed to bring together an incredible group of people.
Both in Kenya and in the Maldives, I arrived on my own, not knowing anyone, and left with promises of meet-ups elsewhere in the world.
Sunset and fishing cruise
To celebrate a successful day underwater, we headed out on a sunset boat trip, which is also a booze cruise. This is one way that tourists and locals avoid the “no-alcohol” rule on land. You can either go on a sunset cruise like we did, or there is a party boat moored out at sea with a free shuttle going back and forth every 15 minutes for those who can’t envision a week in the sun without a drop of alcohol!
Indy Escape’s group tours are not party tours, so nobody was there to get drunk (thankfully!), but finding ways for people to enjoy a beer or two certainly always goes down well, especially as it is so hot and humid. I’m told nothing quenches thirst quite like a cold beer!
As well as enjoying the sunset, we also went fishing for our own dinner. We caught four fish in total, which we then took back with us for the local restaurant to cook for us. Luckily, they supplemented this with extra food, or we would have gone hungry!
Day 6: Centara Resort
After a packed week, we had a much-deserved chill day at the all-inclusive Centara Resort. I know I’ve said I don’t like resorts, but I won’t lie; I thoroughly enjoyed chilling for the day. We had access to two pools, a couple of bars, a gorgeous beach with “picnic tables” in the water (these were the best) and access to several water sports, including snorkelling and paddle boarding. We were also able to walk among the water villas, even if we couldn’t see inside them.
The day’s highlight was the buffet lunch (we all know how much I like my food!). A chef was on hand making fresh pasta with whatever sauce we fancied, as well as a selection fit for Hogwarts Great Hall!!
But as lovely as it was to spend all day there, I would not pay $1,000 a night to sleep over the water. I’m sorry, but there are much better ways to spend money! In fact, two nights spent at Centara would be the same as seven days spent with Indy Escapes!
Day 7: Adrenaline Day
For our final day, we had a free day, so we packed it full of all the adrenaline-water sports available in Maafushi. Most people might think that parasailing provided the biggest adrenaline rush, but honestly, that was the calmest of the options. I didn’t feel like anyone was trying to throw me into the water on that one! We just sat on the back of the boat and were gently lifted by the wind.
I can’t say the same for jet skiing, paddle boarding or tubing! For starters, I let crazy Elysia drive while I hung on for dear life behind! How we both stayed on is a miracle.
We then went tubing, the purpose of which is to spin you around so sharply that you fly off! No flying was done, but my arms certainly felt like they’d had a workout the next day!
And lastly, paddleboarding. I can’t blame anybody else for my ineptitude, but let’s just say I’m not a natural!
Despite all of this, though, I had an incredible day doing fun activities with a wonderful bunch of people. And I know I’ve mentioned it before, but the people you meet are what makes group tours so special. And the Indy Escape’s Maldives Group Tour was no different. I had been worried that my experience in Kenya had been a one-off, but I need not have worried. I thoroughly enjoy the company of every one of the other 19 people on tour. They were funny, caring and interesting, and I hope our paths will cross again as I continue travelling the world.
Farewell dinner
The hardest thing about group travel is always saying goodbye. As we all sat down for our final candle-lit dinner on the beach, I couldn’t help but feel an immense surge of gratitude towards every single person on the Maldives trip who had made it such a special week. From the long, deep chats about body image, politics, war, capitalism and sustainability to the light-hearted conversations about travel anecdotes and the funny games to which I still haven’t grasped the rules. We had a good time! I’m going to miss the lovely peeps that joined Indy Escapes on the Maldives tour.
Is this Maldives Group tour for you?
Unless packaged holidays excite you, I’d skip the private island resorts and explore the local islands instead. It is possible to do this solo, but since the majority of people travel to the Maldives as a couple, I personally think you will get much more enjoyment travelling as part of a small group tour filled with like-minded individuals than trying to navigate the islands on your own, especially if it’s your first time in the Maldives.
With Indy Escapes, you not only get to explore the local islands, but it is also great value. I spent a total of $1,908 on my 7-day tour, including all the extra ice creams I bought while on Maafushi! They do an amazing flavour called Bondi, which, as far as I can tell, is coconut ice cream with caramelised coconut chunks! I had one every day; they were so good!!
The other benefit of travelling with Indy Escapes is that they work with local partners to support the local economy. Most of the resorts are internationally owned and employ predominantly non-natives. The local tour guide, a Maafushi born and raised local, joined us for dinner every night, giving us a chance to understand the unique culture better.
Don’t leave it too late, book today!
The other factor to bear in mind is that these tropical islands and white-sand beaches will not be around that much longer, so the best time to visit is now! With the rising sea levels and warming temperatures, it is hard to predict how long these islands will retain their natural beauty. We saw evidence of greying coral reefs that had died as a result of the rising water temperatures. And with the highest point in the Maldives only being 2.7 metres high, it won’t be long before the crystal clear waters are all that remains of this island nation.
So, skip the Maldives vacation packages and join Indy Escapes on their next tour. Their website offers details of the wide range of activities they offer and the next departure dates. They operate mainly by word of mouth and are often fully booked, so reserve your space early to avoid disappointment!
