Looking for the best things to do in Phon Nha? I’ve got you covered, complete with caves, countryside chaos, and a pub so rural you have to catch your own chicken! But at least it has cold beer!
When I first visited Phong Nha in 2019, it still felt like one of Vietnam’s best-kept secrets. The kind of place where water buffaloes outnumber tourists. We felt like we had properly stepped off the we-trodden path into a world of beauty and peace, of traditions yet unmarred by tourists, in to the real Vietnam.
Despite growing in popularity since then, Phong Nha hasn’t lost its magic. It’s still home to some of the most jaw-dropping landscapes in Vietnam. Think massive cave systems, misty karst mountains, and rural life that hums along to the rhythm of scooters and harvest chatter.
This isn’t just a list of things to do in Phong Nha, it’s a love letter to the people, the peace, and the occasional travel mishap that made this one of my favourite spots in Southeast Asia.
Disclaimer! All of my blogs may contain affiliate links. This means that if you click on the link and make a purchase I may receive a small amount of commission for the referral at no extra cost to you. This commission is what allows me to continue creating guides to help travellers plan their next trip!
What's in this post:
Having arrived in the dark of night I wasn’t able to appreciate the fact I’d landed in paradise until I opened the balcony door in the morning to the most stunning view; expansive rice paddies bathing in bright sunshine with a backdrop of towering karst mountains topped by fog. The morning was alive with the chatter of birds, cockerels and the clip clop of water buffalos as they made their way to the fields for a days harvest. Despite only being 6:30 am, life was in full swing; locals working away in the fields wearing their traditional bamboo hats, mopeds racing up and down the lane, heavily loaded bicycles carrying the days cargo. I was definitely in heaven.
We opted to stay outside the main Phong Nha village in a large colonial French house that has since been converted into a hotel. But calling it a hotel feels wildly inadequate. It was more of a home, only nicer than my actual home, with better views and no chores.
Phong Nha Farmstay isn’t just accommodation, it’s an ethos. A community project that supports local farmers, brings sustainable income to families, and offers visitors a deeper look into rural Vietnamese life. It felt like staying with friends,.
Update for 2025: 6 years on, the Farmstay is still going strong, and if anything, it’s better than ever. With glowing reviews and an even broader range of community led experiences, it’s managed to grow without losing it’s soul.
If you want something authentic, book a room at the Farmstay. Just be warned, you might never want to leave!
If you’re wondering what to do in Phong Nha, start underground. This region is the cave capital of Vietnam and home to some of the world’s largest, longest, and most spellbinding caverns. Whether you are a casual wanderer or a full-on helmet-wearing, mud scrambling spelunker, there’s a cave with your name on it.
The reason for our trip here was to visit the UNESCO World Heritage National Park, awarded this status because it represents one of the finest and most distinctive examples of complex karst land forms in Southeast Asia. Riddled with hundreds of cave systems of extraordinary scale and length, whilst boasting over 1,000 square kilometres of pristine untouched jungle over ground, it is an adventurer’s playground.
Because of the US-Vietnam War and the large scale bombing, the caves in this area have only recently been discovered with many still to be found. This area is believed to have one of the largest amounts of unexploded ordnance in Vietnam and as such heading off piste is strictly forbidden. This does however mean that more wonders await to be discovered under the jungle canopy of Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park. In fact, Hang Soon Doong, now recognised as the biggest cave in the world, was only discovered in 2014 and only recently opened to tourists. Other caves include Hang En, the entrance to Neverland in Peter Pan, and Paradise Cave which is the one we visited.
The main reason for coming to Phong Nha Ke Bang was was to go caving. This is something I was particularly excited about and something Doug really did not want to do. Marriage is about compromise though, right? We went caving! (Maybe it explains why we are divorced now!)
We chose Paradise cave as it did not involve any tight spaces and was suitable for most fitness levels. The longest cave in South East Asia, Paradise Cave expands all the way over the Laos boarder and is over 31 km long. The first kilometre is open to the public, with its beautiful formations lit up and board walks to ease you over the uneven terrain. Once the boardwalk ended however, it was time for the intrepid travellers amongst us to step on to the cave floor, don our helmets, turn on our headlights and commence the adventure into darkness.
The 7 km trek through the cave was easy going, predominantly flat with just a couple of rock formations that we needed to navigate over with some light scrambling. As someone used to hiking, I found it a walk in the park, however, one of the ladies in the group did find the scrambling particularly hard, more so because of fear than technicality, but worth bearing in mind if you chose to do this tour. There was also a 20 metre long stretch of thigh high deep water that we had to traverse. The mud underground slippery, the water shockingly cold! There was the option of getting in a kayak. However, where would the fun in that be? As a matter of fact, it was so shallow that those that did opt to stay dry seemed to have more problems navigating the kayak than we did walking the stretch! Normally this stretch would be deep enough that one would have to swim it and also significantly longer than 20 metres so the kayak makes a bit more sense then!
We walked in the path of our head torch for a couple of hours marvelling at the shadows of the humongous formations until we finally reached an opening at kilometre 7 (although I think they have exaggerated the distance, it didn’t seem that far!). A shaft of light beamed down from an opening in the ceiling lighting up the cave like some form of divine beam pointing out a treasure. In fact, it was a treasure. A treasure of beauty and calm, of nature at its best.
At this point the porter made us a delicious lunch (having carried everything in with him) as we set about trying to capture the perfect picture. Needless to say Doug was always going to win the competition of best picture so whilst he faffed about with time lapses and different shutter speeds, I scrambled down to the cave floor for some further exploration before packing up our belongings and retracing our steps back out the cave.
The cave was another reminder of the USA/Vietnam War. The heavy bombing meant that large sections of the cave’s ceiling was completely devoid of stalactites, instead, they lay strewn on the floor, shattered, forming some form of mineral cemetery. Just one more casualty to a war of dubious necessity.
Is it still worth it in 2025?
Yes—1000 times yes. The cave is just as jaw-dropping, and the tours are still running, though depending on recent weather, you might experience more (or less) water. Booking in advance is a smart move, as these limited spots now sell out faster than you can say “stalactite.”
We tried to visit Phong Nha Cave, but alas, needed more people to share a boat. A rookie mistake on our part (or maybe it was the bum sweat patches that put others off—who can say?).
Today, tours are more streamlined. You can still hop on a boat from the main town pier, but now it’s easier to book a full tour or join a group online. The boat ride itself is part of the magic, gliding silently into a dark river cave flanked by glowing limestone walls. If you’re less into scrambling and more into marveling, this one’s for you.
This one’s for the adrenaline junkies. Zipline across the river, swim into the cave, get covered head-to-toe in warm mud (yes, that’s a thing), and then rinse off in the river like a happy swamp creature.
It wasn’t a thing when I visited, but it’s now one of the most popular things to do in Phong Nha. Be warned: this is part adventure, part theme park, and not for the faint of heart—or anyone scared of small, dark spaces and squelchy floors. (Also not ideal if your travel buddy screams at the sight of a bat. You’ve been warned.)
If it sounds like your idea of fun, you can book your adventure here.
You’ve probably seen it on a Nat Geo documentary or popping up someone’s “insane bucket list”. Hang Son Doong is the world’s largest cave. So vast it has its own ecosystem, jungle, and cloud system. Yes, inside the cave!
If you’ve got deep pockets and even deeper curiosity, Son Doong is the one to beat. Recognised as the world’s largest cave, it has its own ecosystem, clouds, and jungle inside. It takes four days, $3000+, and a fair bit of training to visit—and it books out months in advance. If it’s on your bucket list, Oxalis is your best bet.
And if your bank account says “absolutely not”, don’t worry, Phong Nha has plenty of other caves that are just as unforgettable (and considerably more affordable).
If you want something wilder, more immersive, and with fewer tourists, Jungle Boss Tours is your go-to. These guys are all about ethical adventure, local empowerment, and making sure your inner explorer is well-fed and safely guided.
This one’s for the “I want to disappear into the jungle and emerge a legend” crowd. Hung Thoong is one of Phong Nha’s most untouched and remote cave systems, recently opened to small groups only. Over three days, you’ll trek through dense rainforest, camp in wild valleys, and explore massive caverns, underground rivers, and emerald lakes that look like scenes from an adventure movie. It’s raw, remote, and ridiculously beautiful.
Expect long hikes, river crossings, epic cave swims, and zero crowds—just you, nature, and a guide who knows how to read the jungle like a map. If you’re craving the next big thing before it hits everyone’s bucket list, this is it.
Find out more or book here: Hung Thoong Exploration with Jungle Boss
Here are a couple of their other treks to consider:
Each of these tours supports the local community, avoids overcrowded spots, and is led by passionate guides who know the jungle like the back of their calloused hands. Book early—these tours are popular, and deservedly so.
After an exhilarating day caving, we left the rest of the hotel guests to their happy hour cocktails and instead opted to walk to the surrounding rice paddies to watch the locals as they went about the harvest. Cameras ready, we decided to try our newly acquired photography skills and joined the locals in their fields. We were a little apprehensive, and ready to run should their tones appear angry, but instead, we were welcomed with smiles, many of them even requesting photos of their wife or kids! As well as taking photos, we also got involved, helped them load some heavy bags of newly harvested rice on to the trailers, and stood with them watching the red sky darken. We may not have been able to communicate in words, yet we still managed to share a special experience. I wonder if over dinner they spoke about the random westerners who joined them during the harvest or whether we are simply a forgotten memory? Of course, some communication was certainly lost in translation, I’m still not sure why an old lady grabbed my boob?!
Life in Phong Nha reminds me very much of my own childhood. Joaquin would cut large fields of grass with a scythe whilst my Mum and I would load it on to the back of a horse drawn carriage before I’d clamber on top for the ride home. A basic life, but a happy one. One farmer lead their cows from their scooters in the same way we would lead the horses whilst sitting on the back of the open boot of the car; another farmer herded his ducks through the newly harvested crops in the same way Joaquin would herd his sheep up the mountain; and a water buffalo attacked Doug! (Hilarious!)
You haven’t really been to Phong Nha until you’ve risked life, limb, and questionable helmets on a scooter ride through the national park.
We decided to borrow a couple of bikes and do exactly that. I have to admit I was a little nervous having only ridden a moped once in my life (when we did our CBT) but what could go wrong? We had helmets that didn’t fit, no mirrors, no horn and questionable brakes! In Vietnam you drive with your horn so it’s quite a crucial bit of kit to not have. Whenever you approach anyone; pedestrian, car, bus, bike or bend you beep to let them know you are there. Most bikes don’t have mirrors, and nobody looks before turning because in theory everyone gives way to you. As an example, if you want to join a major road you just turn, don’t bother looking, just beep and whoever is on that road just needs to swerve to avoid you. No horn was a serious problem!
Our aim for the day was to get lost, live in the now and go where the bike took us. We set off along the narrow quieter lanes that weaved through the rice paddies and small little settlements, the perfect opportunity to gain our confidence. We learnt that the countryside is no different to the city. If you need more space, make it, just like those that lived on the train tracks. Because it was harvest season the roads were covered in either grass or rice, both laid out to dry. Perfect swerving practice!
Gaining in confidence we decided to do the Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park loop, a 50 km circular route through the jungle. Windy roads, some steep uphills and downhills and the most stunning scenery: towering karst mountains topped with rainforest, vast valleys and rich greens. The area is absolutely breathtaking and the ride exhilarating. Unfortunately, no photo we took was able to capture the sheer vastness or beauty of the area. Aside from that we were too busy enjoying the ride to take that any photos, instead, the images will need to remain ingrained in our memory! If only we’d had time to ride round once more just to make sure it was etched there for life!
DIY (Like us): Great if you like freedom, chaos and taking the wrong turns that lead to the wrong Pub with Cold Beer. You can go at your own pace, stop to take a thousand photos, and discover hidden corners Google hasn’t mapped yet.
Guided Tour: Perfect if you’re not confident on a scooter or want local insight. You’ll get stories, secret spots, and someone else to blame if you end up face-first in a rice field. Some guided motorbike tours even offer back-of-the-bike options for non-drivers.
Either way, you’re in for one of the most unforgettable rides in Vietnam.
When we had arrived at our hotel two days before the receptionist had told us the story about the “Pub with Cold Beer” (Yes, that is the name of the pub! Can you guess what it is known for?) so we decided to jump back on our bikes and go in search of it.
The story goes that the owner of our hotel went out exploring the area to find what there was. Fridges weren’t a thing so cold beer just did not exist in the area. However, he made a point of always asking. When he stopped off to see what this pub was like he cheekily asked for a cold beer and to his surprise that is what they served him! An icy cold beer! So the name stuck and the pub with no name named itself the very original “Pub with cold beer”. In addition to being famous for it’s cold beer and freshly prepared chicken, it also happens to be by a river which in light of the heat sounded like the perfect antidote to the extremely hot day; so we set off with the hand drawn map in search for this pub.
We found what we thought was the right lane and started winding our way up the hill. The road, slowly changing from tarmac to cement, to dirt, to eventually off road rocky terrain. Sign posts for the bar started to appear and eventually we saw it: The Pub with Cold Beer!
Somehow, I was expecting a little more, this seemed to be someone’s back yard, a couple of hammocks, two tables and a makeshift bar. Oh well, we wanted rural, we had rural! And they didn’t lie about cold beer!! It certainly was icy! However, something didn’t sit quite right. I couldn’t quite work out where the tubing was as I couldn’t see the river, and the menu didn’t make any reference to peanut sauce (which they are famous for!). Somehow, we didn’t fancy trying our luck with food here, my dodgy tummy from street food in Hanoi not yet 100% recovered. The owner did join us with some home-grown bananas though (which by the way are much sweeter and softer than UK bananas despite being eaten whilst still green). She even insisted we left with the entire bunch (10 bananas!). 10/10 for hospitality!
We’d been recommended another place, an Eco Farm, known for its amazing wild boar, so we decided to try that instead. At this point I started to realise something wasn’t right. To get to the farm we only needed to go straight, however, according to the signposts we had to cross the river (which was now in sight and on the wrong side of where it should have been according to our hand drawn map). I was confused…
We continued regardless, over the rickety bridge, up increasingly steeper rocky dusty lanes until we reached the Eco Farm with the swing. A quick jump on the swing and a walk over some planks saw us sitting in a tree house looking at the menu and trying to figure out why there was no wild boar on there (it was after all famous for its wild boar!). Again, I was confused… it didn’t quite seem to match the description we had been provided! We put it down to the language barrier and settled down to another cold drink overlooking the river and enjoying the sight of a farmer herding his ducks along the riverbank whilst the water buffalos cooled themselves in the mud.
As we were about to leave I decided to check our location on the phone, and it was at this point I realised we were not at the eco farm at all and we had not been at the Pub with Cold Beer, instead we had been at two establishments impersonating these real establishments!!
Hard to be annoyed we set off in search of the “real” eco farm which was a couple of
miles further up the rocky lane. When we finally arrived, we were rewarded with some fantastic views and “the” true swing. Huge and perched over the precipice it was absolutely terrifying! Getting on it was enough of an ordeal! You stand on the edge of a platform which gives way to a sheer cliff. The swing is pulled back behind you whilst they attach a seat belt to you. The problem however is that whilst you are stood there looking down at the humongous drop, still unattached, you can feel the swing tight against your back pushing you forward as your feet slowly slide closer and closer to the edge! I won’t lie, I was scared! However, once on and in the air it was AMAZING!! What a feeling to soar above the canopy of trees, all troubles a distant memory.
We took a different route back to the hotel, slowly navigating the rutted, stony slippery “roads”. On route we passed the “real” Cold Beer Pub which looked like I imagined it! Bigger, with a view of the river, hammocks lining the sides and an inviting feeling. What I hadn’t realised is that in order to enjoy their amazing chicken you do need to catch it and kill it first! The true rural KFC experience! I’m not sure I would have enjoyed that!
Perfect—let’s streamline it and introduce new, non-repetitive adventure options that complement the rest of the post. Here’s your updated and tightened section:
Phong Nha may be small, but its appetite for adventure has grown. Beyond the iconic caves and countryside rides, here are a few 2025 favourites that have emerged (or gotten cooler):
Paddle past lush riverbanks, towering karst cliffs, and water buffalo cooling off in the shallows. It’s peaceful, photogenic, and a perfect antidote to the cave chill. Rentals are easy to arrange through your guesthouse or local outfitters.
If Paradise Cave was the gateway drug, Cave É is the next-level fix. Hidden deep within Survival Valley, this overnight trek takes you through thick jungle, across rivers, and into a massive cave system—no crowds, just you and nature. Think wild camping, jungle dinners, and a serious sense of “I did something epic.”
You can book it here!
Less hardcore, more hilarious. The Duck Stop has become a rural rite of passage: feed the ducks, slide through the mud, ride a buffalo named Donald Trump (yes, really), and laugh until you cry. Perfect if you need a break from “serious adventuring.”
Want to work your core while pretending to relax? SUP tours are now available on the river, offering a more tranquil way to enjoy Phong Nha’s dramatic scenery. Sunrise or sunset paddles are especially magical—just try not to fall in (unless it’s hot, then absolutely do).
Not confident on a scooter? No problem. Guided cycling tours now take you through the backroads and rice paddies of Bong Lai Valley—either as gentle sunset rides that include dinner with a local family or full-day loops with picnic stops and hidden viewpoints. You’ll feel like you’ve pedalled straight into a travel documentary.
Because knowing when the caves flood, how to avoid scooter embarrassment, and where to find peanut sauce can make or break your trip.
Money-saving tip for budget travellers:
There’s now a public bus that runs between Dong Hoi and Phong Nha, starting from the town centre near Backpacker Hostel and dropping off near Dong Hoi’s train station and airport area. It’s reliable, air-conditioned, and a fraction of the price of Grab or taxi rides, which can cost 300,000+ VND. Ideal if you’re backpacking or just tired of overpaying to get to paradise.
Yes—and I say that as someone who’s travelled solo in much trickier places. The locals here are warm, welcoming, and wonderfully uninterested in making your life difficult. The biggest dangers? Misjudging a scooter turn or accidentally ordering too much rice wine. Just take normal precautions and you’ll be fine.
Some, yes. The first kilometre of Paradise Cave is open to the public without a guide, and you can access Phong Nha Cave via boat with or without a tour group. But for the deeper, wilder, “helmet-and-headlamp” stuff? You’ll need a licensed guide—and honestly, you’ll want one. They know where the good mud is.
Minimum two full days if you just want to hit the highlights. But if you’re planning to trek, swing, paddle, or accidentally visit multiple fake pubs, give yourself at least 3–4 days. But you could stay here two weeks and still not get bored! Trust me—you’ll thank yourself for not rushing it.
Yes—for the main loop road and general exploration. Scooters or bicycles are perfect for this. But going off-trail (especially into the jungle or lesser-known caves) is a no-go unless you’re on a guided trek—some areas still contain unexploded ordnance, and that’s not the kind of surprise adventure you want.
Yes. While card machines are slowly popping up, many restaurants, small guesthouses, and transport providers are still cash-only. There’s an ATM in town, but it’s wise to withdraw before you arrive (Dong Hoi is your best bet).
Glorious. Fresh, homemade, and full of flavour. You’ll find everything from classic Vietnamese dishes to farm-to-table experiences—and yes, that includes peanut sauce worth flying home with. Just steer clear of the mystery meat skewers unless you’re feeling brave.
I came to Phong Nha for the caves. I left dreaming of rice paddies, banana gifts, and buffalo-induced scooter detours. It was the kind of place that crept up on me—not flashy or famous, just quietly spectacular.
What struck me most wasn’t the caves (though they are otherworldly), or the scenery (which looks like it’s been CGI’d by nature herself), but the people. The smiles from strangers. The unsolicited bananas. The old lady who—well, you’ve read the story.
Six years later, Phong Nha is still with me. Not just in memories or photos, but in how I now approach travel: slower, deeper, and more open to detours—intentional or otherwise.
If you’re heading to Vietnam, don’t skip Phong Nha. Stay a few nights, say yes to the weird and wonderful, and maybe even ride a buffalo named Donald Trump. And if you want to go beyond the highlights and into the heart of the jungle, check out Jungle Boss Tours—they’re the real deal.
The best adventures aren’t always the loudest. Sometimes, they start with a scooter that can’t brake and end with a hammock, a cold beer, and a view that makes you forget WiFi ever existed.
Comments will load here
Be the first to comment