Having just spent six weeks exploring South Africa, I honestly can’t recommend hiring a car more highly. Having the freedom and flexibility to go where you want and explore at your own pace will truly allow you to get under the skin of South Africa. I’ve had lots of questions about driving in South Africa, so I’ve created this mini guide with tips to make your driving holiday here as enjoyable as mine has been! Like the rest of my driving guides, this blog is written tongue-in-cheek, highlighting some of the peculiarities I have encountered along the way.

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Things you should know before driving in South Africa

South Africa is BIG!

This might seem like a ridiculous statement, but what looks like a small distance on the map is, in fact, a very long way! For example, driving from Kruger to Cape Town would take 21 hours before breaks or traffic jams!

I recently made the mistake of thinking St Lucia was “just up the road” from where I was staying in Lake Eland. It turned out to be a 5 ½ drive! So, if you are driving in South Africa, make sure you plan carefully. Don’t be like me!

Internal flights are very affordable, so consider jumping between the main hubs (Kruger, Cape Town and Durban) and then renting a car from there (unless, of course, you have plenty of time and can enjoy the country at a much more sedate pace).

They drive on the left!

They drive on the left side of the road, which means the steering wheel is on the right, like in the UK. The idea of driving on “the other side” seems to be a terrifying notion for many, whether that be left-hand drivers needing to drive on the right or vice versa.

Having road-tripped all over the world, I have become somewhat ambidextrous when it comes to driving, and I wanted to share some tips to make the transition to “the dark side” easier for you.

Tips for driving on the “other” side

Firstly, if it is your first time driving on the opposite side of the road, I recommend hiring an automatic car; that way, you don’t need to worry about changing gears with the opposite hand. Not only that, but it means it is also one less thing you need to think about.

The hardest part about driving on the opposite side to what you are used to is gauging the car’s width. You will likely find yourself either hugging the middle line or too close to the curve. There is an easy fix to this: use your mirrors! Position yourself in what you think is the middle, and then check your wing mirrors. You may need to do this often at first, but your brain will soon get accustomed to it, and before you know it, driving on the opposite side of the road will become second nature!

For the most part, you won’t find it hard to remember to drive on the left, as you will be following other cars on highways. Or you will naturally want to keep the centre of the road next to you. Where you are most likely to forget what side of the road you are meant to be driving on is when you come out of deserted junctions and parking lots. This is when you need to remind yourself not to go into auto-drive!

They love a nasty speed bump!

They love a speedbump in South Africa… and they especially love it if they can catch you out with it! There are varying degrees of speedbump. You have the nice soft ones that encourage you to slow down, but don’t ruin your car when you go over them. There are also the rumble strips, often positioned before a speed bump as a warning. And then you have the nasty ones. I classify these into two.

1. The first are the speed bumps made to resemble Table Mountain: a sharp up, a flat top and a cliff for a descent. There is usually a chunk missing in the middle where unsuspecting low-clearance cars have approached too fast, propelling straight into the concrete mountain with an inevitable “oh shit” expressed while doing so.
2. The second are even worse. They are smaller but meaner. Harder to spot, they creep up on you, leaving you no choice but to close your eyes and hope for the best as you hear the inevitable thud of the tyres and the clunk and rattle of the suspension as it is abruptly woken up!

They do their job! They make you slow down!

Of course, driving sensibly would avoid either of the above scenarios. There is generally a “hump warning sign” before the tarmac reaches out to smack you, but not always. Other tell-tell signs that one is approaching are street vendors. They make the most of cars slowing down to persuade the drivers to buy fresh avocados or macadamia nuts (other goods are also sold!)!   

However, there is another tell-tell sign: debris, especially in farming communities. While driving through KwaZulu Natal, I knew I needed to slow down whenever I saw sugar cane on the road. The bounce created by these evil constructions means that the precariously loaded goods spring off as a warning to other motorists. 

Road conditions in South Africa

Overall, the roads in South Africa are in pretty good condition, especially the main highways. However, the rural roads can be a little rough around the edges. The main challenges are primarily potholes that would burst your tyre if you hit them at speed. The greater challenge though, is that locals know where these potholes are, and therefore race through them, knowing exactly where to swerve. If you keep pace with them, you will quickly find yourself in a spot of bother!

Drive at your pace, not at the local’s pace!

I will never complain about British roadworks again!

In Britain, we love to close off large motorway sections for months on end, forcing road users to crawl past even though nobody is ever working.

They love to do the same in South Africa, but with a clear difference: they make you stop. The only people working are seemingly the ones stopping traffic. They pull out their yellow plastic barrier and make you wait while cars in the next village are given the green light to go. I’ve had to wait up to 20 minutes at these stops, only for five cars to come through. Why do they need to shut off such a large area in one go?

Now, there is one thing you will learn about driving in South Africa. Not everyone possesses patience. And so not everyone waits for the barrier to be moved; instead, they choose to plough through the untarmacked road, often creating chaos further down the line and therefore delaying proceedings for everyone.

Red lights don’t apply to minibuses

In fact, I’m unsure what laws apply to minibuses as they don’t appear to adhere to very many of them.

On rural roads, the speed limit is usually 100 km/h. For whatever reason, minibuses drive significantly slower than this, forcing you to overtake them. However, when you reach red traffic lights and stop like a good citizen, they drive straight through so that you have to overtake them all over again.

Although a red light does mean stop, I’ve noticed that many drivers (not just minibuses) decide whether it is OK to proceed regardless of whether the light is green or not. Usually, people will stop, and if they believe it to be a meaningless red light (maybe nothing coming the other way), they will proceed.

I’m not suggesting you do this, as you would be breaking the law, but beware that the person behind you might expect you to!

Beware of Cattle

The tell tell sign that you are in Africa is cattle on the road, and South Africa is no exception. Not only can you expect to find cattle grazing on the side of the road on the small dirt roads and country roads, but don’t be surprised if there is cattle grazing in the centre reservation of the motorway! They often stand in the middle of the road too, without a care in the world! So please drive carefully!

Driving standards in South Africa

I’ve found the standard of driving to be pretty OK in South Africa (with a few exceptions already mentioned). Infinitely better than Albania! Overall, road users are courteous (at least in rural communities and outside of the big cities), they more or less follow the rules, and the road conditions are pretty good (barring the odd pothole).

There are a few customs that are different from what we are used to, though. The main one is “making space for those driving faster”. In the UK, you have to overtake if you want to go faster than the person in front. Over here, cars and lorries will often pull over to the hard shoulder, giving you the space to pass them or, indeed, giving oncoming traffic a chance to overtake.

If someone does this for you, please thank them by hitting your hazards. Please also be aware that the person behind may be expecting you to pull over and let them pass, as may cars overtaking oncoming traffic. I find the easiest way to drive when abroad is to mimic the behaviours of the locals. This makes you far more predictable!

I find the easiest way to blend in in a new country is to mimic what the locals do. That way, your movements will be much more predictable, thus reducing potential problems.

Beware – toll roads don’t accept debit cards! But they do accept bribes!

Imagine my surprise when I arrived at the toll booth to discover they only accept credit cards or cash. Having lost my credit card in Sierra Leone, I only had Debit Cards. A friend had mentioned this was a problem in Cape Town, but I’d dismissed it because “how is a debit card different to a credit card”. I was about to find out. None of my cards worked! And I had no cash either!

The booth lady insisted that there was no passage without money and suggested that I “find money.” I was coming to terms with the prospect of begging the cars behind me when she spotted my newly bought and much-awaited can of pop. It was a hot day, and I had stopped at the services just before the toll booth to treat myself to a refreshing can of Lemon Twist.

“If you give me the can, you can go” – she said.

I did consider whether begging might be a better option since the can was double the price of the toll, and I was rather hot and thirsty, but I decided it was best to hand over the can, change my Sat Nav to avoid toll roads, and take the long road to St Lucia.

Staying connected while on the road

When was the last time you had a physical map? I bought a map of Kruger, but the days of A-Zs are long gone, and I rely predominantly on Google or Apple Maps. This is all good so long as you have data. Before you set off on your driving holiday across South Africa, I recommend downloading the maps so that they are accessible offline. I’d also make sure to have data!

You can either buy a local SIM (which is cheaper) or opt for the easier option of an eSIM. I personally use Airalo as I have found the installation process very easy and their customer service superb (I had some issues in Tanzania due to an overall national outage of data). With Airalo, you buy your package before travelling, download it before you leave, and then once you land, all you have to do is turn the data roaming on. It also has the advantage of still keeping your “home” SIM card functioning on your phone (great if you have any apps that love sending texts with two-factor authentication codes!).

Asking for directions in South Africa

If Google Maps fails you though, and you end up asking for directions, don’t be surprised by the following descriptions.

Turn right at the robot. A robot is a traffic light!

Second exit at the circle. A circle is a roundabout!

Aside from those differences, all the signposts are written in English, so you won’t have any challenges navigating the country.

Petrol Stations

All fuel stations are manned, meaning someone will fill the car for you. They will also offer to clean your windows, check your tyres, and check your oil. Tipping is discretionary but very much appreciated. Many of these workers can’t afford their own car and walk to and from work every day, often large distances and relying on lifts from passers-by (who in return expect payment). So sparing 5 or 10 Rand can go a very long way.

At the time of writing this blog, 5 rand was equivalent to 20p.

Most fuel stations have a toilet, although you often need to pay 2 Rand to use them.

Self-Drive Safaris

Self-drive safaris are a brilliant and affordable way to enjoy the wildlife in South Africa. Park entry fees are around 280 rand (£12.50), and car hire is also very cheap. I paid between £100-£125 a week, depending on where I was in the country. Self-drive safaris warrant a blog on their own (find it here!), but for the purpose of this article, let me share some tips to make the most of your self-drive safari!

1. Hire a car with a bit of clearance. You don’t need to hire an SUV or 4×4, but I’ve found that asking the rental firm for a vehicle with higher clearance has automatically landed me a free upgrade. If you don’t ask, you don’t get! It will make it easier to spot animals and make gravel roads more comfortable.
2. Please make sure you don’t exceed the speed limits in the parks. 100s of animals and birds are killed every month because people speed through the National Parks. Don’t be an ass!
3. Don’t get out of your car, and keep all extremities inside! Predators see the car as a full entity, not necessarily noticing those inside (although I question this when they make eye contact!). However, as soon as you are out of the car (whether that is your body or your arm), you suddenly look like a tasty snack (or a threat that needs to be dealt with!).
4. Be particularly weary of elephants. They are the most unpredictable of the animals and can do a lot of harm. Keep a safe distance, turn your engine off and be calm and quiet. Remember, none of the animals will be aggressive unless they feel threatened or provoked. Respect them, and they will respect you.
5. Do not litter!! You’d think this goes without saying, but sadly, it is a problem.
6. Don’t go off track, no matter what interesting animal you have spotted. The only vehicles allowed to leave the tracks are the official safari vehicles, so if you want that experience, make sure you book a game drive. If you want advice on where the best ones are, reach out to Evan from Nala Africa Safaris.

Check out my Guide to Self-Drive Safaris in South Africa for more information.

Staying safe while driving in South Africa

One of the biggest questions I have had about driving in South Africa is whether it is safe, especially as a solo female traveller. It is true that statistically crime is bad in South Africa. There is no getting away from it.

South Africa has the 8^th highest murder rate per capita in the world, but then Lesotho is third and yet I branded it the friendliest country I have ever visited! South Africa is also thought to have the highest car hijacking rate in the world, with over 20,000 having been taken by force in 2023. However, these are not uncommon in other parts of the world. But it is worth noting that nowhere else reports car thefts and hijacking separately.

Precautions you can take

There are certain precautions you can take to reduce the chances of becoming a victim:

1. Know where you are going and seek local advice on where is safe and not
2. Keep your doors locked, your valuables out of site, and your windows closed, especially at traffic lights
3. Always try to park in well-lit areas or where there are parking attendants. It is common for parking attendants to ask whether you want them to keep an eye on your car. I always say yes and give them a small tip when I return (usually 5 rand).
4. Don’t engage in road rage, it can often escalate quickly. Remember, there are a lot of guns in South Africa.
5. If something doesn’t feel right, don’t stop. Hijackers use different tactics to get you to stop, from blocking the road with stones to bumping the back of your car so that you get out to exchange insurance details. Listen to your gut. If it doesn’t feel right, keep going and call the police (112).
6. Don’t stop for hitchhikers or people in distress on the side of the road. If you are concerned about someone’s safety, call the police, but don’t stop.
7. And, if you are getting hijacked, do not resist.

Hitchhikers

The 8^th rule is don’t do what I do! Picking up hitchhikers is a big no-no. Most people struggle with the concept even in “safe” countries like the UK or Spain, so somewhere like South Africa is a BIG FAT NO! But I wanted to understand why so many people are hitchhiking in South Africa, so I picked up some hitchhikers.

I am in no way recommending you do the same. There is a good reason why everyone, including the hitchhikers, tells you not to pick people up. But the only way I could learn about them was to talk to them.

As you drive, you will see many (MANY) people waiting on the side of the road. They don’t put their thumb up, instead they either lift a hand or point a finger down. Public transport, particularly in rural areas, is limited, and people rely on passing cars to take them 10-20-30 km to work, shopping, or to see family.

They have no other means of transport and therefore rely on informal taxis to take them from one destination to the next. These “taxis” are individuals who drive the common routes, picking up people by the side of the road in exchange for cash. They will cram as many people as possible into their vehicle and drop them off as they go. So it isn’t really hitchhiking; it is just another form of paid transport, but one that isn’t monitored, leaving everyone at risk.

There are those who pick up hitchhikers who aren’t necessarily these “taxis” but instead individuals who need help with the cost of fuel. They collect people on their commutes to subsidise their own costs. However, this is becoming less as these “taxis” see it as “stealing” their business and, therefore, can become very aggressive.

John

I picked up John, an older man working a security job 25 kilometres from his home. He has worked that job for 22 years and, for all that time, has relied on hitchhiking both there and back every day. He has six children, one married and one at university. The rest are still at school. His wife works locally in the village. In order to provide for his family, he needs to give himself 2 hours to get to work every day because he never knows how long it will be until someone stops or whether they will be able to take him all the way. It could also take him 2 hours to get home at the end of his shift.

On the plus side, someone has always stopped.

Rules of the road

Now that we have discussed my tongue-in-cheek experience driving in South Africa, here is some important information that you should be aware of before setting off on your road trip!

Driving Licenses

My understanding is that to drive in South Africa, you need to have a valid license printed in English. If your driving license is not in English, you must apply for an International Driving Permit (IDP). If your driving license doesn’t have a photo ID, you will need to supplement the paper document with a form of photo ID, such as a passport. It is also worth noting that some hire companies require an IDP regardless, so do check at the time of booking.

Always make sure you carry your documents with you. It is a legal requirement to be able to produce these should the police stop you.

4 Way Stops

They have the dreaded four-way stops that Americans love! These are generally only used on smaller intersections, and unlike in America, where I found them highly confusing, they seem to flow well here. The rule is that whoever arrives first has the right of way, so you need to pay attention when it’s busy to whose turn it is next. If you arrive at the same time as someone else, you give way to the right.

Speed Limits

As a rule of thumb, highways and toll roads travel 120 km/h, rural roads 100 km/h, and urban areas 60 km/h. Any variations to these will be signposted.

Other Rules

As with most other countries, seat belts are compulsory for all passengers, drink-driving rules are strict, and the use of hand-held mobile devices is prohibited.

In case of Emergency

In case of emergency, call 112. There are a number of other specific numbers depending on whether you want police or ambulance, but let’s face it, in an emergency, all of that is going to be out of your mind, so just remember this one number: 112!

Renting a Car in South Africa

Are you convinced that driving in South Africa is a good idea? Great! In which case you will need to book a car. Renting a car is great value for money. I paid £125 for a week in Hoedspruit and £100 a week in KwaZulu Natal (this even included the fee to take the car into Lesotho and Eswatini!). I booked both of those rentals through Discover Cars.

Crossing borders with your hire car

If you are travelling around South Africa with a rental car you will likely want to explore two great nations that lie within South Africa: Lesotho and Eswatini. If you are travelling from Kruger to the coast it is easier to cross Eswatini than it is to go solely through South Africa. Not only is it easier, but it is a beautiful country. The roads are great, the people are friendly and I found it to be very cheap.

Lesotho is another fantastic option if you are planning on exploring the Drakensberg mountains. Lesotho is beautiful and empty, and I would highly recommend spending at least a couple of days there.

Is it easy to cross borders with a hire car though? I rented with Budget and it was easy and cheap. At the point of collecting the car I let them know which countries I wanted to visit and they simply filled out some extra paperwork and charged me 250 rand (£10) per country. I had been in touch with Europcar but they were charging 1850 per country. There is no straightforward answer online so I can’t be sure I didn’t get a deal, so it is worth checking before choosing your rental company!

Booking accommodation in South Africa

Whether you want to spend £20 a night or £1000 a night, South Africa has it all! If you are looking for safari lodges I’d highly recommend getting in touch with Evan from Nala Africa Safaris as his knowledge is second to none. Evan arranged all of my safari lodges for me, and he hit the nail on the head with every single one! You can read my reviews here:

• Ubuntu Luxury Villa
• Tanda Tula
• Shimungwe
• Leopard Mountain

If you are travelling on a budget then I highly recommend using Booking.com. I stayed at some really lovely properties and paid no more than £30 a night! The highlight was African Dreamz in St Lucia. I enjoyed it so much that what started as a 2 night stay ended up in a 6 night stay!

Final thoughts on driving in South Africa

After exploring this beautiful country for six weeks, I urge you to go beyond the highlights. South Africa is huge and has so much to offer! Having the flexibility of driving yourself makes such a big difference. If you are staying in Cape Town, you don’t need a car; you have Ubers, which are super affordable. However, if you want to explore the Garden Route, you definitely do.

Likewise, if you are visiting Kruger, I would 100% encourage you to book game drives as you will get so much more from the experience than self-driving. But the Greater Kruger Area has so much more to offer. So give yourself some extra days, stay at Ubuntu Villa in Hoedspruit and explore the Panorama Route and Blyde Canyon off your own steam.

And if you have the time, definitely go to KwaZulu Natal. It’s a hidden gem amongst international tourists with so much beauty and warmth to offer!

Driving in South Africa is easy. It has its peculiarities, as every country does, but I have found it one of the more straightforward countries to drive in.

So, what will it be? Will you be renting a car when you visit South Africa?

Don’t forget your travel insurance