Imagine traversing the untamed landscapes of South Africa, the wind in your hair, and the roar of a distant lion echoing through the savannah. Yes, that’s what I pictured my self-drive safari in South Africa to be like. The reality, I’m afraid to say, was a little different!
I have always promised to be honest and authentic in my writing, and so I want to share what I liked and disliked about the various self-drive safaris I did during my six weeks in South Africa. And fear not, there was plenty to like, too! I also want to share with you why I preferred the guided safaris and why I would opt for more of those. Above all, I hope you find this blog helpful in planning your self-drive safari in South Africa!
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For adventure travellers, wildlife enthusiasts, and budget-conscious explorers, a self-drive safari offers unparalleled freedom and the chance to create your own unique safari for a very affordable price! I was surprised by how cheap the park entry fees are in South Africa. As a foreigner, the park fee for Kruger was under £21/$27!! To put this into context, the entry fee into Serengeti in Tanzania is $70 (and that’s before you pay concession fees for staying inside the park!).
If you wanted to do a 5-day self-drive safari in Kruger, you would be looking at £105/$135 in entry fees, £125/$162 for a 7-day car rental (through RentalCars.com), and £336/$472 in accommodation. Accommodation is based on four nights in a rondavel inside the park and two nights outside the park. That’s a 5-day safari (7-day trip) for £566/$769!! Bargain!! Take a friend, and suddenly, that is only £335/$471 per person! When it comes to value for money, you really can’t argue. Self-drive safaris in South Africa are a great budget option!
However, before you get too excited and book a flight for next week, let me explain why I’m not sold on them!
I went on my first self-drive safari the day after finishing my stay at Shimungwe Lodge, where I had the privilege of going on a driven game drive with two of the best trackers I have had the pleasure of meeting! They spent 3 hours tracking a pride of lions until we found them doing precisely what the trackers had predicted that morning: following a large herd of buffalo in preparation for their evening snack!
Meanwhile, I was in Kruger, in my rental car, trying to find footprints on a tarmac road! That was never going to work! Even on the gravel tracks, it was hard to spot a track because as you are low down, constrained by all the car pillars, and unable to hang out the vehicle (for safety reasons) to check whether the footprint was that of a lion, a leopard, or a hyena (as if I would have known the difference anyway!).
My self-drive safari experience relied entirely on me spotting animals. I thought I was a pretty good spotter. I’ve spent hours standing in the back of Landcruisers in Tanzania, looking for movement in the distance. The flicker of an ear from a rhino hiding amongst the tall grass. The elephant camouflaged as a rock on the horizon. The tiny spec on top of a termite mound that turned out to be a cheetah. I’m pretty good at spotting animals. But not in South Africa. It is one thing to be looking while being driven. It is a very different ball game when you need to concentrate on driving. Add to that the limited number of open plains, and you are limited to spotting only the animals that are right in front of you.
Of course, when you happen across a lion on your own or a big elephant bull comes walking down the hill towards you, it is certainly exhilarating—maybe even more exciting than when you are with a guide. But being with someone who can find all the animals you can’t is truly special!
Being on safari doesn’t equate to seeing animals all the time. Sometimes, you could go an hour or two without seeing any wildlife. When you are on a self-drive safari, that hour is noticeable because you are constantly on the lookout. I’m not suggesting it is a wasted hour, as you are driving through beautiful nature, but it certainly isn’t as educational or entertaining as being with a safari guide.
I met the best guide of my South Africa trip while staying at Leopard Mountain. He managed to make every aspect of the game drive fascinating. Not only did he spoke about flora, fauna, birdlife, ecosystem and conservation. He also pointed out chameleons that were disguised as leaves and shared fascinating facts relating to South African culture. Meanwhile, while on safari on my own, the best I could do was hazard a guess at what type of tree I was staring at, hoping that by some miracle, a leopard might be taking a snooze in it.
I’m by no means suggesting you don’t do a self-drive safari. But if you can afford it, make sure you also plan in some guided drives too! Evan, from Nala Africa Safari, helped me arrange my entire trip to South Africa, and he was an absolute godsend. Not only did he help me with my self-drive safaris in Kruger and Hluhluwe-Imfolozi by advising what routes were best for which sightings (which he got spot on, by the way!), but he also found some fantastic lodges for me to experience in private game reserves. Regardless of what kind of South Africa safari trip you are planning, I recommend getting in touch with Evan! He is the font of all knowledge!
As the name suggests, a self-drive safari involves being let loose on your own inside a national park or game reserve. You will hopefully have purchased a map so you know where you are going, and you will follow the marked-out routes in search of wildlife.
On a typical self-drive safari day, you will get up at the crack of dawn so you can leave your camp as soon as the gates open. You want to get out there as early as possible, as this is when animals are most active. You will then stay out all day driving the various routes in search of wildlife or picnic camps! Below, I touch on best practices to see as much wildlife as possible and avoid burnout, including how to best plan your routes.
At the end of the day, you will return to your camp (before the gate closes!), where, in true South African style, you should enjoy a braai, some beers and a peaceful night’s sleep in nature!
South Africa has some of the most spectacular national parks and game reserves, each offering unique landscapes and diverse wildlife.
Kruger National Park is a must-visit, renowned for its vast size and incredible biodiversity. Here, you can drive through varied terrains, from dense bushveld to open savannah and spot the Big Five—lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants, and buffalos. You could easily spend an entire week in Kruger and not even scratch the surface! For more information on Kruger, check out my Kruger Guide!
Another gem is Addo Elephant National Park, where you can witness the largest elephant population in the country. The park’s well-maintained roads and diverse ecosystems make it ideal for self-drivers. In addition, its location on the Eastern Cape makes it an ideal addition for anyone wanting to combine it with the Garden Route.
For a mix of coastal beauty and wildlife, head to iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Its blend of bush, beach, and wetlands offers a unique safari experience, with opportunities to see hippos, crocodiles, and even leatherback turtles. Between June and the end of November, it is also possible to see humpback whales off of the shore.
Hluhluwe Imfolozi is another great park and a favourite for Kwuazulu Natal residents. I was unlucky here, as it was a very hot day, so most animals were hiding in the shade. However, I met a lady who had been there the day before and had seen leopards, lions, and a cheetah hunt! I may not have seen any of those, but I did see a rhino mum with her young!
Lastly, don’t miss the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, a remote wilderness that straddles South Africa and Botswana. Known for its red dunes and black-maned lions, it’s a haven for photographers and nature lovers seeking solitude and raw beauty. If you want an off-the-beaten-path adventure, then you should definitely consider Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
If you are travelling during the winter months (June to October), you should book in advance as the best camps get booked up early. The Travel – SANParks is easy to use (if a little clunky). Choose the park you wish to visit and the area where you wish to stay, and it will bring up all the accommodation options. You can also pay your park entry fees (or concession fees) simultaneously, saving time at the gate.
You can also book guided walks and game drives from the SANParks website, and it will come as no surprise that I highly recommend this to complement your self-drive safari in South Africa.
Preparation is key to a successful self-drive safari. Start with a reliable vehicle—preferably a 4×4 with good ground clearance! Pack a well-stocked first aid kit, plenty of water, and non-perishable food items.
Clothing should be lightweight, breathable, and neutral in colour to blend into the environment. For sun protection, don’t forget hats, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Binoculars and a good camera with a zoom lens are essential for spotting wildlife and capturing unforgettable moments.
Invest in a detailed map of the park or reserve you’ll be visiting, and consider downloading offline maps on your GPS or smartphone. Finally, ensure all necessary permits and park entry fees are sorted before your trip.
And last but not least, make sure you have enough fuel!
You could drive to the park and just follow your nose, but I don’t recommend doing that from personal experience! Instead, spend some time researching to find out what areas are best known for what animals and whether specific times of day are best.
For example, if you want the greatest chance of spotting the Big 5 in Kruger and you are short on time, then you should focus on driving from Skukuza to Berg-en-Dal, on to Crocodile Bridge, and then Lower Sabie before returning to Skukuza. That doesn’t guarantee sightings, but it increases the odds.
There are a number of ways you can do this:
Ensure you are ready to go and waiting at the gate as soon as it opens. Animals are most active first thing in the morning, so make the most of it! Safaris are not a time for lies-ins! If you need sleep, take a siesta in the middle of the day at the same time as the animals!
I discuss the road rules within the National Parks below, but driving slowly goes way beyond safety. You are going to miss half the wildlife if you zoom past! Drive slow enough to give you a chance to scan both sides. Animals are brilliant at camouflage, so you are not just scanning for a big animal; you are scanning for the wag of a tail, the flicker of an ear, or the movement of a branch. You have to be going slowly to spot that!
Driving and scanning is tiring! Driving slowly is also tiring. There are many campsites dotted around the park. Make sure you stop every 2-3 hours to stretch your legs, use the toilet and speak to other safari goers. They may have some juicy intel for you that could return the best sighting of the day!
My most memorable sighting in Kruger was a mongoose. Yes, you read that right! Not the large herd of elephants that crossed my path, the giraffes drinking or honeymooning lions. Nope, it was a special moment I shared with a mongoose.
I had spotted some movement under a bush, so I stopped. At first, I couldn’t see anything, but after a few minutes, a shy mongoose poked its head out. Assessing the situation, it decided I was safe, and it just lay down in the shade, staring up at me. I must have stayed with it for 10 minutes, slowly forming a silent bond.
Too often, people go on safari with expectations of what animals they might see. I say get rid of them. Being in nature is a privilege, and the patient are always rewarded. Don’t rush from one Big 5 sighting to the next. Take on board everything that the national park chooses to show you. You never know; lurking behind that big herd of cattle might be a lion patiently waiting for their dinner.
In his book The Guided Nature Experience, Curteis Roberts says, “Look for nothing, and you will see everything; look with expectation, and you will spot nothing.” Never have these words been truer! It’s like watching a kettle boil. Without fail, I always spot animals when I am about to give up. Just at that point, something will appear like a beacon of hope to remind me to keep going!
During my first safari in Tanzania, we had given up on ever seeing a leopard when one appeared during our commute between Northern and Central Serengeti—we weren’t even doing a game drive! The same happened when I stayed at Leopard Mountain. Just as we started doing a 3-point turn to give up on our search, Graeme spotted the elephants we had been tracking right at the top of the hill!
So rather than moving on when it’s “just another impala,” observe their behaviour. Scan the horizon with your binoculars. National parks are an intertwined ecosystem, which means there is always more than meets the eye.
For example, if you find a lion eating its prey, chances are there will be a hyena nearby, ready to scavenge the leftovers. While in Hluhluwe Imfolozi, another guest shared a video they had taken of an Impala, unaware that hiding in the tall grass was a cheetah. The simple act of being curious meant they captured a cheetah hunt on their phone!
You will often see viewpoints signposted from the road. Don’t skip them. They usually make great vantage points from which to see animals, especially if you have a pair of binoculars. Again, while Hluhluwe Imfolozi, we spotted a leopard resting on a tree from the picnic sight! I was with a safari guide at the time and would never have spotted it without him (and the binoculars!).
Waterholes are marked on the map and signposted from the roads. It is always worth visiting them as animals will always come to drink! Keep an eye on the paths that lead to the watering holes too, especially under the bushes and trees surrounding these paths. Many predators choose to take refuge from the heat of the sun here, safe in the knowledge that their prey will be walking past to drink water at some point.
River beds and the banks surrounding them are also great spots to look for animals. Elephants often dig for water in dried-out river beds, while animals such as duikers and other antelopes enjoy grazing the green bushes surrounding them.
And where there is prey, there are often predators, so pay close attention, especially to trees with big branches, as this is where leopards like to hang out, waiting for the perfect opportunity to have a snack!
One of the most exciting aspects of a self-drive safari is the anticipation of wildlife sightings. South Africa’s national parks are teeming with a variety of animals, ensuring every drive is an adventure. In Kruger National Park, keep your eyes peeled for the Big Five, as well as cheetahs, wild dogs, giraffes, zebras, and an array of antelope species.
In Addo Elephant National Park, elephants are the stars of the show, but you can also encounter lions, hyenas, and the rare black rhino.
iSimangaliso Wetland Park offers a different experience. Take a river cruise to spot hippos and crocodiles, or head out on a charter boat to sea to spot the humpback whales.
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is famous for its predators, including lions, leopards, and cheetahs. The park’s arid landscape is also home to gemsbok, springbok, and meerkats.
Bird watchers will be delighted with the diversity of bird species across all parks, from majestic eagles to colourful kingfishers.
Self-drive safaris can be safe or unsafe, and which one it is really depends on your own behaviour! If you follow the rules and respect the animals, I am sure you will have a very pleasant experience. Not following the rules, though, puts both you and the animals at risk!
A self-drive safari can be a cost-effective way to experience South Africa’s wildlife, but it’s essential to budget wisely. Vehicle rental can be a significant expense, but it doesn’t have to be! I always use Discover Cars and RentalCars, and I’ve always managed to get a bargain!
Accommodation ranges from basic campsites to luxury lodges. Booking well in advance can help secure the best rates, especially during peak seasons. Self-catering options can save money on food costs, but budget for park entry fees, fuel, and any guided activities you may want to join.
Consider investing in a Wild Card, which offers unlimited access to over 80 parks and reserves across South Africa for a year. It can be a worthwhile investment if you plan to visit multiple parks during your trip.
This is a topic I have given a great deal of consideration to. On the one hand, I think it is great that self-guided safaris make wildlife viewing so much more accessible for people. Still, I do worry about the repercussions of having people driving around with no training or knowledge of animal behaviour. 100s of animals die each month in Kruger alone due to speeding vehicles. Would this be different if only safari vehicles were allowed?
This isn’t the right blog to discuss this topic at length, but sign up for the newsletter so you can read my upcoming opinion piece when published!
I’m sure it will be no surprise that I prefer guided safaris to self-drive safaris. However, I see the benefits of self-driving, so I have created the below comparison to help you decide which is best for you.
Self-drive safari Flexibility to plan your day You can stay out all-day You have to be back in camp before dark You will be in the company of the people you want They are significantly cheaper You need to be self-sufficient. You are responsible for your own safety. You need to stay on marked roads You can stay as long as you want at a sighting Self-catering (although some campsites do have restaurants). I found them overpriced and not particularly great quality. | Guided Safari An expert will have created your schedule to provide you with the best possible wildlife viewing opportunities You will be looking for animals in the early morning and evening when they are most active You will enjoy a nighttime game drive on the way back to the lodge It’s a chance to meet fellow wildlife enthusiasts There are plenty of budget options, although none are as cheap as a self-drive safari You will be with an expert guide who will not only keep you safe but also be able to read animal behaviour and provide a lot more context to the animals, birds, and plants you see. Guides can take you off-road Your guides will dictate how long you stay at a sighting, but their choices are often based on what’s suitable for the animal and what else they know might be available Gourmet food is prepared for you so you can sit back and relax |
Ultimately, the choice between self-drive and guided safaris depends on your preferences and priorities. A self-drive safari is ideal for those seeking independence and adventure. However, a guided safari may be the better option if you value expert guidance and a more structured experience.
A self-drive safari in South Africa is an extraordinary adventure. It offers the freedom to explore at your own pace and the thrill of discovering wildlife in its natural habitat. From planning your route and packing essentials to understanding safety and sustainability, this guide has covered everything you need to prepare for your trip.
However, while self-drive safaris offer numerous benefits, guided safaris can elevate your experience with expert knowledge and luxurious touches.
Regardless of what type of safari you are planning in South Africa, make sure you contact Evan from Nala Africa Safaris. I could not have pulled off my six weeks in South Africa without him! If you are the kind of person that likes requesting multiple quotes then I recommend Safari Bookings, but I can make you a promise… you will be going back to Evan!
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